Remove ALL hardware from ALL surfaces receiving finish !
All coats shall cover all drawer and door surfaces including all edges and back sides. Backs (surfaces against walls etc.) and cavities for built in appliances shall have 1 sealer coat and 2 coats of lacquer. Surfaces adjacent to appliances shall be finished as though exposed.
If drawers are self-pull (without hardware pulls) edges and back surfaces shall be finished as faces. Applied wood drawer fronts will be removed and the backs finished as faces.
Apply all lacquer with Conversion HVLP or Conventional spray equipment. Note: all coats are to be applied as even wet coats, not flooded on, nor fog misted. NO orange peel is allowed. Add Star Flash Off Control solvent to effect flow if required by spraying conditions. Use lacquer Retarder to control moisture blushing only. Do Not over thin finishing coats or the film build will not be enough to provide moisture protection.
Always make a test panel
to check adhesion and color. Evaluate color with all finish coats in place.
Each layer of lacquer will slightly change and add to the final color.
For a Premium Finish:
Optional Prep Step: (for darker or medium toned woods requiring a light finish) Use a two step Wood Bleach (sometimes necessary for very light tone finishes)
For Stained Wood:
Optional Prep Step: - Apply Bleachtone (color mask) to create an even toned base for stain. (The Bleachtone mask will help achieve an even stain color tone.)
NOTE: To minimize growth patterns or the grain in the wood Use Seal and Stain, or a washcoat, (1:1 Lac. sanding sealer and Lac. Thinner), prior to staining. Apply a pigment wiping stain of the desired color by spray or brush and wipe off excess to desired effect. A pigmented stain is preferred in cabinet work where hardwood and plywood exist side by side. An even color effect is easier to achieve with a wiping stain.
It is more difficult to achieve an even tone between ply and hardwood with dye stains. Most dyes (especially red and reddish tones) Do Not have the same light fastness or fade resistance to sunlight as the same color of pigmented stain. Dyes do have a place in some finishes to help give an even color to the overall background. Dyes can also darken light woods for a deeper color tone where a wiping stain alone will not yield a deep enough tone.
NOTE: dye stains are always used on bare wood. Some dye stain products will enhance or emphasize any wood growth patterns making these areas in the wood stand out and look darker.
Nitrocellulose Lacquer Sprayed Finishing Schedule
for Kitchen Cabinets
(see notes above)
#1 --- APPLY Sanding Sealer, thinned no more than 20%.
It is very important that the first coat be applied wet enough to effect a proper bond and adhesion to the substrate fiber. Lack of adhesion and subsequent faking or de-lamination of the entire finish coat from the substrate can occur if this coat is "fogged" on too dry and does not flow and wet the substrate. Sand (#180 Sterate Coated Paper) and #00 Steel Wool to remove gross or obvious roughness.
(For the best resistance to moisture, use vinyl sanding Sealer &
for better durability a PreCat Sealer & Lacquer should be used)
#2 --- APPLY 2nd coat of Sanding Sealer, thinned no more than 20%. This coat is especially important on softer woods to provide an even base for the build coats. Sand #220 Sterate Coated) and #0000 Steel Wool to remove ALL nibs or roughness. -- Optional: Apply glazing here if desired to enhance the moulding or finish color texture.
#3 --- APPLY GLOSS Lacquer, thin as little as possible, not more than 20%. Use Gloss for all build coats for durability, toughness, and to maintain clarity.
#4 --- APPLY 2nd coat of GLOSS Lacquer, thin as little as possible.
For a Minimum Cabinet Finish eliminate step #4 & 5 and go To #6
#5 --- APPLY 3rd coat of GLOSS Lacquer, thin as little as possible.
For a Standard Cabinet Finish eliminate step #5 and go To #6.
#6 --- Sand (#220 Sterate Coated) and Steel Wool #0000 to remove all nibs or roughness.
#7 --- APPLY Desired Sheen of Lacquer (Satin, Semi-Gloss, or Gloss) thinned as little as possible, not more than 20%.
A lacquer toner can be added to the sanding sealer or any of the lacquer build coats to enhance or adjust the finish color. If this is done prior to the last 2 coats minor scratches in the surface won't remove color.
For honey amber to darker tones use Clear Lacquer (actually slightly amber). For very light wood tones use Water White (clear as water) Lacquer. If a non-yellowing finish is important such as on a whitewash or very light pastel stains use Cab-Acrylic Lacquer or our 9000 series waterborn Lacquers.
Evaluation of the "KITCHEN Cabinet" Finish:
Do not be fooled by looks! If you finish only to a finish that looks good, has an even sheen, and smooth throughout, you probably Will Not have enough finish on the surface to provide long term durability required of such finishes.
The Clear Build coats of finish (Steps #4 above) provide the film thickness that can stand up to high frequency of use, abrasion and the continued cleaning typical in such environments.
Nitrocellulose Lacquer Advantages: Quick drying. Can be applied in a wide range of climatic conditions. Easy to Repair or Recoat. Can be applied over a wide range of stains and dyes. For commercial work and the best durability a ConversionVarnish finish is suggested.