Hot.Stuff Cyanoacrylate Instant Glue, Adhesive Use Guidelines

Use Guidelines:
With any supply, getting use to the way it works by practice & use are the best teachers. As a starting place these guidelines have been collected from experience and are provided so that you might get the most from the HOT STUFF Glues.

They are not a substitute for regular aliphatic (woodworkers) or plastic resin assembly and laminating glues, however HOT STUFF Glues will become an Extremely useful & Time Saving TOOL in any shop, repair, or touch-up facility.

Also at this time we would like to say that it is the craftsman's roll to determine the suitability of this very permanent glue in such repairs as Antiques & musical instruments where such use would make later finishing and or repair work difficult. It is this authors opinion (and generally held) that such repairs as genuine antique veneers should still be made with hide glue in keeping with the integrity and value of the piece. (If any one has tried to refinish or dye a veneered surface that has been repaired in part with modern non stain taking glues you know what an impossible and difficult situation this can be.)

* Store UNOPENED bottles in the refrigerator or freezer.
(this will give maximum shelf life after opening)
* Bring bottles of glue to room temperature prior to opening.
* DO NOT store opened bottles in refrigerator. The cool bottle will condense atmospheric moisture and cause premature curing and shorten shelf life.
This will shorten shelf life of the glue.
* DO NOT poke pins or nails in the spout this introduces foreign matter and atmospheric moisture that can shorten product life and make an unbelievable mess of the tip.
* DO wear eye protection!
* DO tap the tip sharply and squeeze air through the tip (wear eye protection) after use and prior to replacing the cap (Always replace the cap). Occasionally there will be a small hardened "pin" of glue in the tip of the spout, remove by pulling out with fingernails or the tip of a knife or pin.
** Tips and Caps that become hopeless can be revived by soaking in acetone in a small lidded bottle for a day or so, let dry thoroughly prior to placing the spout and cap back in service. Extra tips and over caps are available 2 sets to a box. (Extra tips are good to have on hand. I can tell you from experience that the tips WILL get clogged immediately if you happen to get in contact with a part or surface where the accelerator is active.)
* When Refinishing, Glue prior to cleaning or stripping, any excess will be taken care of in following operations.
* On finished surfaces a coat of wax around the area (not in the joint or crack)
will keep any excess from sticking to the surface.
* DO NOT apply the accelerator too soon as foaming and bubbling will occur.
* DO NOT Refill Glue Bottles; the partially cured adhesive in the bottle will accelerate and shorten the shelf life of the added glue.

There are 3 Glues in the System:
For simplicity we will refer to them by their LABEL color
(all the glues are water clear.)

* The Red glue (5-10 second set) is a thin glue with great capillary action; runs into cracks like hot solder into a copper pipe joint - is used where the other glues cant be used:
* Loose tenon joints such as chair spindles or rungs that wont come apart easily or that are pinned in place yet still loose.
* Tight cracks in trapped panels as in cabinet doors or chests.
* Assembled furniture where glue joints open up and can be pulled together with clamps (such as loose dovetailing on drawers or finger joints where only one corner is loose).

Example: Gluing a wobbly chair.
* Clean around and in the loose joints, blow loose dirt out with an air gun if available.
* Place the chair on a surface so the glue runs down into the loose joint.
* Glue only one or two joints at a time. * Use the thickest glue that will easily run into the crack. If the joint can be disassembled use the Green glue (on very loose parts) or Yellow glue (on tight or good fitting parts), in the mortise (the hole). If the wood shows signs of being very dry and brittle soak the tenon with a coat of Red glue and allow to dry 10 seconds then apply one squirt of NCF Mild Accelerator to ensure that the part is dry. Put the Green or the Yellow glue in the hole and assemble the joint hold tight or clamp for about 20 seconds for Yellow and 60 seconds for green. Prior to releasing pressure squirt joint with accelerator. If upon inspection the joint still shows an open crack apply drops of Yellow (or Red for very small cracks) and squirt with accelerator after a few seconds. Proceed around the chair gluing only the upward facing joints at a time so that the glue doesn't run down the chair legs.

Example: Fixing striped out screw holes
such as for door hinges or any screw hole for mounting hardware.
1: Clean out loose dirt with air gun if available.
2: Use a dowel or whittle a plug of the appropriate and dry fit (leaving overlong for easy removal). If hole is large and the job warrants the hole can be drilled out to match the diameter of an available hardwood dowel.
3: Remove the dry fitted plug, apply a few drops (depending on size) of Red to the hole and immediately a few small drops (2 to 3) of Green .
4: Insert the prepared plug and gently tap into place. (If squeeze-out occurs wipe away excess with a clean cloth.)
5: Count to 20 and use 1 or 2 squirts of Accelerator on the repair.
6: Inspect and if any sizeable cracks remain, squeeze drops of Yellow glue around the plug, wait a moment & accelerate the glue as before.
7: Trim the plug off flush with sharp knife, chisel, or bead saw (taking care to protect the surrounding area from damage). Especially with softer woods, apply 1 or 2 drops of Red glue to the center of the plug, this will soak in & help harden the fibres and provide a stronger material for the screw to bite into.
8: Drill a small pilot hole using the hinge or hardware as a positioning template and re-insert the screw. (In practice this process can often take less time than reading the above explanation.)

Example: Mounting green/wet wood
& for faceplate turning on the Lathe.
1: Prepare a dry hardwood disc the diameter of or slightly larger than the lathe faceplate being used. If a 11/2 in. thick disc is used the parting tool can remove the turning by wasting the mounting disc so the maximum thickness of the turning material can be used.
2: The disc is mounted to the faceplate with 3/4 in or 1 in screws so that the screws penetrate the mounting block from 1/2 to 3/4 inch. (This step may be done last especially if one is short on faceplates or a batch of turning blocks is being prepared.)
3: Prepare a Flat surface on the base of the turning block & position the mounting block and mark the perimeter.
4: Apply the Yellow glue to the glue block and a couple squirts of accelerator to the turning blank & immediately press the two together and clamp or rap sharply with a mallet.
5: Check glueline and apply Red glue to any open crack, count to 5, and accelerate with a squirt or two. Mount the face plate & for safety stand out of line when starting the lathe.
6: Hairline cracks, soft spalted wood, and defects can be repaired before and as turning progresses with the HOT STUFF Glues.

Example: Finish Repair
of chipped clear finishes can be accomplished quickly with just a little practice.
1: Clean, then apply the Green glue: allow to dry & add more if necessary. (don't accelerate this could cause foaming)
2: Cut down repair with Fine emery paper & rubbing lubricant then rub out to desired sheen.

Example: Carving
Fix splits, loose knots, reinforce soft sections of wood and assemble parts.
Use the techniques as outlined in previous examples.