Burn-In & Touch-Up Procedure

STEP 1 - CLEAN the SURFACE

A. Remove excess wax, oil, grease and other foreign matter using Star Dewaxo.
B. Wipe surface with a circular motion, using Dewaxo on a clean sort cotton cloth.
C. Wipe off excess with a clean cloth and allow to dry a few minutes before proceeding.

STEP 2 - DETERMINE the TYPE of FINISH

Use Dr. Dan's Finish Indicator;
How To Use:
A. Remove small red cap. Puncture a small hole in the top of the tip with a pin or a small nail. Always replace red cap when not in use !
B1. Apply one drop of Finish indicator to a concealed (inconspicuous) area of the finish to be tested.
Note: The finish Indicator will leave a mild scar where applied.
Or
B2. Scrape off a small amount of the surface to be tested on to a piece of glass and apply one drop of Finish Indicator.
Note: This procedure is recommended for any medium or dark toned Surfaces.
C. Watch for a change of color.
(A color change will occur in 1/2 to 3 minutes elapsed time).
Blue - Nitrocellulose, Lacquer
Brown - Urethane, Polyurethane
No Change - Synthetic, Vinyl, Acrylic
D. After color determination has been completed, wipe off Finish Indicator with a water saturated cloth.

STEP 3 - BURNING-IN

A. Clean and sharpen Burn-In knives to assure that the edges have a burr free 90 deg. angle for efficient removal of the excess burn-in material.
B. Prepare the crevice to be filled using a sharp utility knife. Remove all loose fibers, making sure that nothing protrudes above the finish surface.
C. Fill the defect using the appropriate Nu-Glo stick to match the background color without the grain (mixing several Nu-Glo sticks may be required).
Note: the grain is usually darker than the background color,
but there are exceptions. Analyze the wood being worked on.
D. Use Patching Lube around the Burn-In site to prevent adhesion of the Nu-Glo to the surrounding finish.
E. Remove the excess Nu-Glo material with the Burn-In knife.
F. Wet sand the section using 400A wet/dry sandpaper, Rubbing Lubricant and a cork block to stabilize your hand and achieve a flat even surface. This will remove any surplus burn-in material and will identify a proper fill, (level and free of air bubbles).
G. Wipe off all excess Patching Lube with a clean cloth.

STEP 4 - COLOR CORRECTION TECHNIQUES

a) French Patching
A. Form a small stiff ball shaped pad using Star Wilized Cloth, a white, lint free, cotton cloth; ideal for french padding.
B. Apply Wil-Pro or Satinol (see product glossary) to the cloth pad and transfer a small amount onto the repair site surface.
C. Use Match-O-Blend (M.O.B.) powders to obtain the desired color. Several colors are usually required.
D. Use 4/0 steel wool to feather, soften and blend in your results.
b) Two Minute Touch-Up
A. Mix Two Minute Touch-Up Solvent and M.O.B. powders in a small vial or glass pallet using an ox hair brush. 1/4 in. is recommended for small repairs.
B. Add appropriate powders and thin when necessary by adding a few drops of Two Minute Touch-Up Solvent.
C. Apply a thin coat to surface being sure to feather in the color over the repair and the surrounding area.
Note: It is recommended to do several thin applications rather than one thick one.
D. Allow to dry ten to fifteen minutes before smoothing with steel wool, (optional if needed).

C) Color Pad - color correction fluid:
Color pad is a unique color matching problem solver. When the color of wood surfaces is not uniform it can be corrected through the use of this product. It is the fastest and easiest way to adjust color. Simply wipe on with a piece of Wilized cloth to make the necessary adjustment.
If the wood surface or stain color Is: Too cold, meaning blue or green - use color pad #1 Warm Red. Too warm, meaning red or orange use color pad #2 Cold Blue or #3 Cool Green. Too dull, meaning faded - use color pad #4 Clean Yellow. Too light, meaning bleached out - use color pad #5 Universal Brown. Mistakes and overcoloring can be corrected through the use of the #6 Color Pad Eraser. Available in a 6 pack kit of 1 each, or individually in 5 Colors & Eraser:
1 - Warm Red 4 - Clean Yellow 2 - Cold Blue 5 - Universal Brown 3 - Cool Green 6 - Eraser

STEP 5 - GRAINING TECHNIQUES

a) Distressing Pencils
Use Distressing Pencils to restore the graining after a burn-in procedure.
Distressing Pencils are also used to "antique" & "distress" finishes, commonly seen in colonial styles of furniture, with small dots, specs, or lines.
A. Sharpen tip to a fine point and recreate distress marks or graining.
B. Soften results with steel wool, (optional if needed).

b) Graining Pens
A. Recreate the grain pattern respecting major and minor lines.
B. Turn the tip of the marker slightly to avoid over application of the material.
C. Soften results with steel wool, (optional if needed).
D. It is not necessary to apply a topcoat. (You may wish to avoid a topcoat over some catalytic finishes.) However a topcoat may be applied where helpful or required.

c) Graining Liquid, M.O.B. Powders, Graining Brush
A. Mix a small quantity of the appropriate M.O.B. powders and graining liquid in a small vial or glass palette.
B. Twist the brush to a fine point and remove the excess material; Or, flatten chisel or straight edge brushes and stroke with the straight edge parallel to the grain and surface.
C. Recreate the grain pattern respecting major and minor lines. It is recommended to work with a relatively dry brush. This will facilitate the execution of finer lines.
D. Let Dry and Cure thoroughly (at least 5 Minutes).
E. Soften results with steel wool if needed for effect (optional).

STEP 6 - PROTECTIVE COATING

It is necessary at this point to apply a protective finish over the repaired area. This will make the repair permanent. The coating to be used must be compatible over the existing finish Please refer to Step #2: Determining The Finish.

A) Aerosol Sprays

There are a variety of aerosol sprays available in clears, sealers, colors, and toners.
You must apply a compatible product over the existing finish.
Refer to Step 2; Determining The Finish.

• Lacquers may be top coated with Spray Lac or Classic (VT series) Aerosols.
  
• Urethanes and Polyurethanes may be coated with the urethane spray of the appropriate sheen.
  
• Synthetics, Vinyls and Acrylics may be coated with the acrylic spray of the appropriate sheen.
  

B) French Polishing with Lac-French & Star-Lite

These products are designed for French polishing, they have a higher build and
as a result will give greater protection than Wil-Pro.
This procedure is recommended when you wish to apply a finish by hand.

• Form a small pad with Wilized cloth.
  
• Make sure that the cloth feels tacky to the touch.
  

Note: It is recommended to work with a tacky cloth to avoid wiping off proceeding work.
Too concentrated an amount of Lac-French or Star-Lite may cause the burn-in to sink.

C) French Polishing with Satinol.

Proceed the same as above. However, after rubbing Satinol with steel wool, the result will give a flatter sheen than can be achieved with the other frenching materials.
The Satinol will stay flat.

• Rub With Steel wool to a flat sheen.
  
• Satinol is designed to stay flatter than the other French Polishes.
  
• WiI-Pro, Lac-French, Star-Lite, & Satinol, are compatible over most finishes.

STEP 7 - COLOR ADJUSTMENT

Sometimes it is necessary to adjust the color over a repair. This is most commonly done on areas
where the bare wood is exposed due to excessive sanding, poor color balance between two sections of
wood, or the need to camouflage a series of repairs. There are several methods:

a) AEROSOL TONERS
Aerosol toners, are colored lacquers available in two different styles - Spray Lac or Classic Vari-Tones which are frequently used to adjust the color in a given area.

• Spray approximately 10 inches away from surface.
• Spray a thin coat over area being sure not to spray too heavily.
• Feather in spray to blend in with the surrounding area.
• Rub-out with 4/0 steel wool - (optional if needed).

Spray Lac Aerosols (1400 & 1500 series) Colored with pigments that are semi-opaque and are useful in camouflaging and blocking out defects. Excellent for color correction of areas and may be layered to arrive at exact color matches.
Classic Aerosols (VT series) Colored with dyes which are semi-translucent; Classic Aerosols allow the grain pattern to show through.
Classic VT sprays have an adjustable spray tip with three settings: low, medium and high.

b) NU-GLAZE (graining and antiquing medium)
Use Nu-Glaze after a sanding sealer coat to give greater depth of color to the finish.
Glazing is usually the third or fourth step in a finishing system and is used to accent
the grain or to give beautiful contrasting effects of depth to carvings and mouldings.
Nu-Glaze can be used to adjust a slightly incorrect burn in color.

• Apply a small amount of Nu-Glaze with a cloth, brush or spray and allow two to three minutes to set before wiping.
• Wipe lightly to desired effect (Nu-Glaze is usually left on heavier around carvings)
• Use 4/0 steel wool to strike out or highlight the grain pattern. Light buffing with the steel wool around high relief areas of carvings gives that sought after antique look.
• Finish up by brushing out to a soft natural look with the Star Mark II or Mark III glazing brush.
• For a more subdued tonal effect reduce the premixed colors with Nu-Glaze Extender.

Note: Nu-Glaze extender is the neutral glaze body, minus the color. You can alter the Nu-Glaze colors may by intermixing or tinting with STAR 0-J Tinting Colors.

STEP 8 - SPECIALTY FINISHING MATERIALS & LACQUERS

There are certain common problems which arise when repairing nitrocellulose lacquers. While these problems do not appear all the time, it is useful to know how to rectify them.

a) Blushing;
Blushing is a term used to describe a white or milky look which takes place when the lacquer dries and traps excess humidity beneath the surface. This is most common in high humidity environments.
Solution: Apply Blush Eliminator (leveler) #1491, a retarder solvent. Blush Eliminator is a custom blend of choice solvents and is designed to redissolve the lacquer and slowdown the drying process.

• Spray a small quantity to redissolve the lacquer and release entrapped moisture. This is also helpful to level orange peel and overspray.
  
• Allow at least fifteen or twenty minutes to dry before rubbing. The drying time will vary according to the amount of Blush Eliminator applied.
  

b) Fish Eyes / Craters;
Fish Eyes is a term used to describe the reaction when lacquer is sprayed over a surface which is contaminated with silicone. The lacquer will not flow out properly and small craters appear similar to the appearance of fish eyes.
Solution: Spray Silicone Leveling Lacquer over the damaged area.
Note: DO NOT spray any other type of non-siliconized clear lacquers or stains over this Silicone Levelling Lacquer Silicone leveling lacquer is available in three sheens; Gloss, Semi-gloss & Flat.

c) Shine Through / Bright Spots & HALO;
Bright Spots or halo effects take place when the Burn-in remains shinier than the surrounding area.
Solution: Spray Burn-in Sheen Protector #1492 over repair to eliminate bright spots. When a gloss, satin or flat finish is applied over #1492 the repaired area will blend into the surrounding finish sheen.
Note: This process is recommended for sides, bottoms and inconspicuous areas. DO NOT apply this on tops!
Tops with bright spots (halo) can be corrected with an application of Lacquer Sanding Sealer followed by a top coat of the appropriate sheen lacquer.
Note: Sanding sealer must be sanded before the lacquer is applied.

STEP 9 - FINISH RUBBING

Rubbing usually follows a normal schedule, of one or more finish sanding& rubbing operations.
This process will be more vigorously applied in a regular finishing
schedule. In touch-ups the finish that has been applied will generally not be very hard or thick.
Consequently, we can proceed directly to using a mild abrasive appropriate to the sheen required.

Semi-Gloss & Dull Finishes
The majority of touch-ups can be rubbed out using 4/0 steel wool and Wol-Wax.
The Wol-Wax serves as a Wax & Oil Free lubricant buffer between the surface and the steel wool to provide even results prevent excessive scratching.
- - Place a small amount of Wol-Wax on a 4/0 Steel wool pad or very fine abrasive pad (Scotch Brite), Dip pad in warm water and apply to finish surface, rubbing in the direction of the grain. The Wol-Wax will begin to suds-up like a soap. Apply firm, even pressure and alternating strokes. Wipe clean with soft dry cotton cloth.

Glossy & High Gloss Finishes
The surface must be made as smooth as possible in order to achieve the greatest amount of reflection possible. Depending on the sheen required, you may use Rubbing Compound followed by Final Rub Polishing Liquid, or just one of these products. Begin by sanding with tri-m-ite wet or dry 600A followed by Imperial 1200A sandpaper; use both with Rubbing Oil or Rubbing Lubricant.
Rubbing Compound is a paste which contains a finely ground abrasive used for rubbing down the final coat of lacquer in most finishes. It is used after wet sanding.
- - Apply a small amount to a clean damp cloth, and rub surface vigorously in the direction of the grain. It is recommended to use a felt block while rubbing in ensure smooth even strokes.
Note: Keep the surface wet to avoid scratches caused by the rubbing compound.

Final Rub Polishing Liquid is a final step in obtaining that super high gloss finish. It is used after wet sanding and the application of regular Rubbing Compound. Super fine abrasives are ground into a liquid form and may be used with either an automatic buffing machine or by hand. Final Rub will give that "wet look" on new pieces or that "new look"on well finished old pieces. Apply liquid with a damp cloth to surface using a felt block to ensure smooth strokes. Always rub in the direction of the grain. Wipe off excess with a soft damp cotton cloth.

STEP 10 - Finish POLISHING

All finishes have a better life and appearance when given a final application of furniture polish. Apply a small quantity of Bristol Polish to a damp cloth and wipe on in a circular motion. Buff in the direction of the grain with a clean dry cloth.
Note: Bristol Polish contains no silicones or contaminates which can be harmful to finishes.

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